Beans and Rice, redux and upscale

I ate most excellent tacos at Tacos Diablo in Nassau, NY (Rensselaer County) of all places, okay they like the location because they get a lot of traffic — auto/truck and customer — thanks to being on Route 20, the thoroughfare between the two.

Unfortunately they do not yet make their own corn tortillas, but I’m told the owner has big plans for expansion to other locations — no not, Columbia County except perhaps a pop-up at Yonder Farms, on Route 9. Hear their truck has been parked on Route 295 slinging tacos east of Chatham. 

I had very delicious elote corn, 3 tacos they kindly allowed me to vary and the taco-maker graciously and attentively suggested combos of salsas, etc to enhance the ingredients of each. Very delicious, very thoughtful. I also got beans and rice because how can one say no? Of course I had mucho leftovers of the rice and beans so here’s what I did to see them again for dinner:

In a pan with 1 T oil over medium heat, cook onions or scallions for 10-15 seconds, and then add beans and rice, spreading out, letting sit to brown, and stir occasionally and add 1 t soy sauce and a dash of rice vinegar, and mix in. 

Serve with:

Spicy mayonnaise: Hellman’s with hot sauce and chile garlic sauce or sambal oelek mixed in

Diced cucumber tossed well in a bowl with 1 t sugar and 1 t salt and set in a strainer to drain for 10 minutes, then rinsed.

Pickled onion or shallot thinly sliced and covered with 1 T rice vinegar and tiny pinch of sugar and salt. 

Top with chopped herbs: cilantro, mint, and/or basil. (I only had parsley first go-round and used that; not the best would probably omit next time if that’s all I had. I did in fact have fresh dill on hand but I don’t think that would go that well. But really, who would think that mayo and soy sauce and black beans sing harmoniously together as in this handy, thrift and tasty dish! 

I have barely scratched the surface of Tamar Adler’s new book — an encyclopedia of how to use up what you have, and a surfeit of recipes, casually mentioned.

Source: Tamar Adler, The Everlasting Meal Cookbook; Leftovers A-Z: Fried Beans and Rice, p 214.

Summer zucchini soup

Sauté or steam some zucchini and perhaps also some yellow squash and fresh onions if all in season in the glorious high summer month of July in the Hudson Valley. Then purée with steaming liquid or vegetable stock, add yogurt, some lemon and perhaps some sumac in the sauté, and some grated garlic in the soup to then chill. 

Ingredients:

Fresh onion (optional), 1, sliced into half moons

Zucchini perhaps some yellow squash too, 1 #, soaked in water and then cut into half moons

Sumac, optional

Salt and pepper

Vegetable stock, 1/2 – 1 c

Yogurt, 1-1/2 c

Lemon juice, 1 T

Garlic clove, 1 small, grated

Directions:

1. Sauté onions in olive oil in large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add sumac. Add sliced zukes when onions are cooked pretty much. Add S&P and sauté, then add vegetable stock, cover and steam until done. 
2. Purée zucchini with stock. Put in bowl and whisk in: yogurt, lemon juice and garlic. 
3. Chill. 
4. Strain soup, using spatula to press and scrape. This is optional, such as for company or you’re feeling fancy.
5. Optional garnishments: mint, chiffonade cut; or thinly sliced zucchini, salted and strained for 15 minutes, rinsed then patted dry.

Source: Martha Rose Shulman, New York Times

Penne with zucchini, ricotta and basil

Homemade or fresh locally-made ricotta will handily make its own sauce for summer pasta, thinned with pasta-cooking water. Here’s the start of this summer season, with local zucchini, summer squash and basil.

Ingredients:

Zucchini and summer squash, 1/2 # (2 small), cut into 1/4” slices, and if large, cut into half moons

Penne or ziti, 4 oz for 2 people

Onion, 1/2 small, diced finely

Garlic clove, minced

Ricotta, 3 T

Basil, good amount, ~1/2+ c.

Crushed red pepper, a good pinch

Lemon zest from 2/3 lemon

Parmesan and/or pecorino

Directions:

Soak zucchini and squash in water for 1/2 hour to discourage any grit, if time allows.

Prep:

Cut up onion

Slice zucchini

Mince garlic

Zest lemon

1. Put up pot of water to boil for pasta. Cook until al dente; drain reserving 1/2 c cooking water.
2. In large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 T olive oil and cook onions until softened, 5 minutes, keeping heat down to prevent browning. Add zucchini, S&P, and continue cooking for 10 minutes until soft, stirring occasionally. 
3. At end of cooking time, add tomatoes (if using) and garlic 1 minute before done. Turn off heat if pasta is not yet done.
4. Add cooked pasta to zucchini pan, and turn up heat to medium high. Add 1/4 c pasta water, ricotta, red pepper and lemon zest, stirring. Cook for a minute or so. 
5. Mix in basil and cheese. 

Options:

Add toasted pine nuts at end of cooking zucchini

Add cherry tomatoes and cook two minutes in zucchini pan

Use more herbs — e.g., parsley, and experiment with different red peppers and/or spices (harissa, perhaps?)

Make with roasted peppers instead.

Source: David Tanis, NY Times

Tofu dinner — warm, spicy . . . and not fried!

Slice your tofu and poach in water to simmer and then just sit for at least 20 minutes and serve warm with a spicy sauce and some simple greens. . . and perhaps rice if you plan ahead and you have the makings of a delicious and — get this — vegan Chinese meal, with zero deprivation.

Ingredients:

Tofu, one block firm 

Soy sauce 3 T

Sesame oil, 1 T

gochugaru (Korean chili flakes), 1 t

Garlic, 1 hefty clove, chopped or grated

Scallion, about 3-4, sliced thin

Optional: Sugar, 1/2 t

peanuts, to top tofu

Directions:

Bring a skillet of water to boil. Cut tofu in half lengthwise — to make two thinner slabs rather than one block. Place in water, lower heat and keep warm/simmer for 20 mins. Or just turn off heat and wait a bit. No stress — the tofu can sit.

Make sauce: Toast sesame seeds in skillet or in oven if you are toasting peanuts also. 

Mix up sauce ingredients. 

Roast, sauté or steam some greens. 

Put tofu in a bowl and top with sauce, some reserved scallions and peanuts. Yum! And barely cooking.

Source: Alexandra’s Kitchen and Gourmet Magazine

Pico de gallo

Having at long last procured my favorite tortilla chips at my beloved food coop, and after a long work shift there and post-work shop, I came home tired and craving nachos. Alright then! I planned ahead by purchasing some mild cheddar. I didn’t see the can of black beans in my cabinet (can’t call it a pantry, sadly) so I used some Dozen Cousins refried beans. I looked up nacho recipes on Eat Your Books (a subscription service for us excessive cookbook collectors!) and found several mentions of pico de gallo. Hmm, don’t remember that. I have fallen out with jarred salsa even my long-preferred favorite brand because it does not taste fresh because it’s uh, not fresh, it’s jarred.

Pico de gallo is just what’s needed. It’s fresh. It’s simple. It’s delicious. 

Here’s how:

Cut up some tomatoes. Even mid-winter not-so-great grape tomatoes from the supermarket. 

Dice up a white onion. Okay part of the onion; it’s big!

Cut up serrano and/or jalapeño peppers. 

Lime juice

Cilantro

Salt (I like sea salt)

That’s it! Mix together and let sit/macerate for 10 minutes or so. It’s good as a tortilla dip. It’s good on nachos. Beats that jarred stuff! And look how easy!

Source

White bean, andouille & kale soup

When you feel like soaking and cooking some fine, quiet white beans, and can snag some good andouille . . . Make some vegetable stock and you’re nearly there!

Vegetable stock

Andouille, cut in half moons, 8 oz (or substitute kielbasa)

White beans — Alubia blanca are an excellent choice — < 1/2 #

Lacinato kale, de-stemmed and rinsed

Onion, diced

Garlic, 2 cloves, minced

Smoked paprika, 1/2 t

Crushed red pepper flakes, if you want some heat

Carrot, 1 large, peeled and cut in slices or half moons if thick

Directions:

Sauté onion, then carrots, in olive oil for about 5+ minutes, adding salt. 

Then paprika, then garlic for a couple minutes

Add andouille, then stock. Bring to boil and add kale and cook 8-10 minutes, until tender. 

Add cooked white beans, S&P to taste.

Perhaps some cider vinegar, 1-3 T to perk things up!

Adornments/ additions:

Parsley

Parmesan, not necessary, really

Cornbread!

Note: I cooked the beans with a glug of olive oil and a bay leaf, adding salt at very end because they cooked faster than I anticipated — done in less than 42 minutes. Oops!

Black-Eyed Pea Salad

Perfect for New Years Day. 

Ingredients:

1# black-eyed peas, soaked for 4+ hours

Poblano or serrano peppers, 3, roasted^*

Red onion, 1/2+, diced

Roasted red peppers from a jar, cut up (optional)

Cherry or grape tomatoes, if available and delicious (doubtful in dead of winter in NE US)

Cilantro, optional 

Lime cumin vinaigrette:

Put into a jar and shake, then taste to see if it needs more lime juice or salt:

Lime zest from 1-1/2 limes

Lime juice, 3 T (from 2-3 limes)

Olive oil, 4-1/2 T

Cumin, 3/4 t

Dijon mustard, 3/4 t

Salt, 1 t + more as needed after tasting

Avocado crema:

Put in a mini-food processor and process until smooth. Then cover well and hold in refrigerator:

Avocados, 2

Juice and zest of large lime to yield about 1-1/2 T juice

Sour cream, 1/4 c (4 T)

Garlic clove, cut up

Salt, ~1/3 t

 ^* To roast peppers: Place peppers on aluminum foil-line baking pan and place under the broiler, turning every 2-3 minutes until evenly blackened. Remove to bowl and cover with plastic, to steam for 15-20 minutes. Peel.

Source: 

The fabulolous Emily Nunn, Department of Salad! 

Make yourself a nice late fall dinner — sautéed chicken, creamed spinach, roast potatoes

sautéed chicken breast with shallot, roasted maitake mushrooms

Creamed spinach

Roasted potatoes with garlic cloves and thyme

Prep:

Flour on plate for chicken

Cut chicken in half

De-stem spinach 

Chop up shallot

Roast mushrooms with olive oil

Preheat oven to 450°

Wash and cut up potatoes. Add to baking pan with whole peeled garlic cloves. Drizzle with olive oil, S&P and thyme. Turn potatoes cut side down. Add a splash of water and cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 40 minutes, removing cover 1/2 way through.

To roast mushrooms: cut into 1” pieces and place on baking sheet with olive oil and salt, and roast about 10+ minutes, turning once or twice with spatula. 

Heat heavy cream in small saucepan. Add a split garlic clove; toss around garlic in cream and let sit.

Prepare spinach: Pull off stems and pick through putting a very large amount in a saucepan because it shrinks like crazy. Add a splash of water and salt, cover and cook for less than 5 minutes, stirring once or twice until just wilted. Drain and set aside in colander. When ready to serve, heat cream and stir in spinach, and grate on a touch of nutmeg.

Heat nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat, add butter and oil. Cut breast in half horizontally to make thinner. Put flour on plate. Put S&P on chicken; when pan is hot, dredge chicken in flour, tap off excess, and place in pan. Leave for 2 minutes, then rotate without flipping. After a couple more minutes, flip and turn down heat if necessary to not burn. You want high heat though to avoid the dreaded rubber banquet chicken breast. Remove and tent loosely with aluminum foil (from taters!). Sauté shallots. Add in mushrooms. Top chicken with mixture, or add chicken to pan, toss around and then serve!

Serve and enjoy!

Black beans and sweet potato tacos

Staying on my bean kick, because of course I am now among the “people of the bean” aka Rancho Gordo bean club member. I cooked some black beans perhaps for the first time — certainly in decades because I shied away thinking they take 4 hours or are impossible to cook. I soaked and cooked them up in less than an hour! And the taste . . . . superb! I have a deluge of root crops from my CSA farm share and the sweet potatoes are excellent, and undeterred from not having all the traditional taco ingredients and accompaniments including no ripe avocado, cilantro, or queso fresco, I decided to have a go of it with mainly the beans and sweet potatoes. I’ll do it again . . . and already have!

Ingredients:

Black beans

Sweet potatoes, roasted

Sautéed onions, garlic, hot peppers if available or use chili flakes

Cumin. Maybe some chili powder

Sour cream

Grape tomatoes, cut up

Hot sauce!

Cook black beans with 1/2 onion

Sauté cut up 1/2 onion in olive oil (or veg oil) with salt. Add minced fresh hot pepper or red pepper flakes and cumin and perhaps some chili powder. When almost done, after 5 minutes, add minced garlic. Set aside until beans are cooked, and then add drained beans, and let cook slowly so everything blends. 

Roast sweet potato: preheat oven to 425°. You can peel and cube your potato or, even easier:

Cut in half lengthwise — after scrubbing — and brush cut sides with olive oil, and sprinkle all with kosher salt. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet, cut side down, and roast for about 1/2 hour or more until tender. Remove and let sit. Okay if it comes to room temp. Scoop out flesh to add to tacos.

Heat tortillas over dry heat 30+ seconds on a side. Layer in:

Black beans

Sweet potatoes

Cut up tomatoes

Sour cream.

Yum! 

To gild the lily: 

Pickled red onions

Cilantro is always welcome, assuming you’re not one of those who thinks it tastes like soap(!)

Avocado

Queso fresco, and omit the sour cream (?)

Salsa 

Or try chipotles in adobo mixed into beans

Another guide

Note: You want good corn tortillas for this or I say just don’t bother. I found some local fresh ones that I heated on my cast iron pan. You can also cover in aluminum foil and heat in the 350° oven for 5-10 minutes. Even better: make your own tortillas! Maseca, Bob’s Red Mill and Gold Mine organic. This recipe will get you started. You only need: masa harina, water and salt! A cast iron pan, a tortilla press, and a plastic storage bag to cut up. I hear you can make do without a press.

To pickle red onions:

Red onion, peeled and sliced thinly

Lime juice from 3-4 limes — or use just one lime and add 1/2 c white vinegar diluted with 1/2 c water

Cider vinegar, 1 T

Kosher salt, 1 t

Ground pepper, 1/2 t.

Mexican oregano, optional

Here’s another way

Simple beans for dinner

Now that I am proudly among the “people of the bean,” that is, a (credit-)card carrying member of the Rancho Gordo bean club, delightedly receiving a shipment of 6 varieties of mostly heirloom beans every 3 months, beans are what’s for dinner when I want a simple meal. 

I selected a small white bean — Alubia Blanca Bean — from my recent shipment. Described as “a small, white heirloom that feels at home in kitchens from Mexico to Spain to New England [and Hudson Valley!]” Being little and no-doubt fresh, these beans cooked up in 40 minutes. 

For a simple meal, I steamed some broccoli, and made a parsley vinaigrette-ish preparation of: garlic, parsley, lemon juice (zest would not be amiss here), S & P, whizzed in mini-chopper, and then added in olive oil. Drizzled over everything warm and it was pretty darn good, thanks to those exquisite beans! Such a rich and delicious universe of beans beyond canned.

Also very good as a cold lunch dish: beans, drained; leftover cooked broccoli, carrot, vinaigrette.

Inspiration: NY Times Cooking